Showing posts with label to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label to. Show all posts
Saturday, May 10, 2014
How To Race A Car
Some people like it fast. This article reveals the secrets to racing your car on a track.
Steps :
1. Find a race track. Racing your car on public roads is dangerous and illegal. You will also have a lot more fun on a track that is made for speed and safety. Search on the Internet (see "External Links" below) or look in a phone book.
2. Get schooled. Call the race track and ask when they will be hosting a "Drivers Education" event or when it will be open for the public. You should not race your car until participating in a Drivers Education event. If the track knows of none, search on the Internet for "motorsports clubs" in your area. If you have a car with a racing heritage like Audi, Porsche, BMW, Yugo, Daewoo etc., search for that club (i.e., Porsche Club of America). When you go to any track, if there is classroom time, avail yourself of the wisdom which will be imparted. Many racers began their careers participating in autocross events. Contact the local NASA (National Auto Sport Association) or do an online search.
3. Perform a safety check. On the day of your first race, check all of the mechanics of your car including oil (which should be topped off), tire pressure (a few PSI higher than normal-ask the instructor or another participant), tire tread, steering fluid, brake fluid and brakes. If you are not experienced in doing a safety check on your car, take it to a mechanic and tell the mechanic you plan on racing the car. When you get to the track, check the tire pressure and oil again. Look under "Things Youll Need" (below) for a list of items to bring to the track.
4. Learn the rules. Every event has different rules. One common rule is a prohibition on passing, among the most dangerous of racing moments. Find out the rules from the event organizer.
5. See the track. Feel the track. Be the track. On the track, go around twice at a normal rate of speed to get the lay of the land; if possible, get out and walk the track paying special attention to the turns. Commit the track to memory by drawing it on paper, noting turn-in and track-out points. Do a drive-through with a instructor if at all possible. Dont be scared of the track (AKA: An "OGorman"), but give it the proper caution and respect.
6. Track to curb. When you first go on track at speed, follow an experienced driver. Every turn is approached with a minds-eye view of entry & exit and understanding of apexes. The prime apex point is the point in the center of the turn which will produce the fastest exit speed. Depending on track conditions(debris)and traffic you may need to use an early or late apex. You want to maintain as shallow an arc from your entry (turn-in point) to the exit (track-out)point. You should always maximize the amount of road surface used.
7. Learn how to Brake. Rather than braking incrementally when going into a curve, it is best to be going as fast as you are prepared to and to then brake fast. This does not mean slamming on your brakes to the point where you could go into a spin (a common mistake) but it does mean knowing when to brake at the last possible moment. Braking can be practiced daily on interstate off-ramps, etc. Braking is usually done to impending lock-up. With ABS, you simply stand on the brakes. Braking can slow the car to the speed necessary to successfully negotiate a turn as well as settle the car at turn-in or when used in combination with steering and acceleration can cause the car to begin to rotate in order to carry more speed into a corner. A teacher familiar with the track can tell you exactly when you should start braking and turning and even where your car should be positioned going into turns.
8. Alternate of braking. Or you can start drifting if you know how to and take a steady and compressive turn and go out of it without losing much speed.
9. How to be Passed. If you are driving under "No Pass" rules, this usually means that passing is still allowed if consent is given. Ask first. If this is the case, ask for the signal to show your consent. You should not be doing a lot of passing (or any passing) as a novice but you should be getting passed often. When you see a driver approaching rapidly, the driver may well be looking for your signal. It is important to be courteous by giving this signal whenever it is safe to do so. This signal is usually an arm point out straight to the left if you wish the driver to pass to your left or, if to the right, your arm out the window and bent over the roof pointing to your right. Give the signal clearly with your arm fully extended. Immediately upon giving the signal, make sure your car behaves as if it is ready to allow passage on the side you indicated. Do not point right and then track right. Stay in your line of travel. Only give a passing signal on straightaways.
10. Learn and be mindful of the flags. While most tracks attach the same meaning to each flag, there is some local variation. Use this paragraph as a guide but be sure to check with the event organizer. The following will usually apply:
o A solid green flag means that the warm-up lap has ended and that passing may commence (when passing is allowed and then only according to rules of consent).
o A blue flag with a diagonal yellow stripe means that you need to allow the car behind you to pass. This is usually only shown when you have already failed to do the right thing without request. At the next passing zone, give the signal and hold your line.
o A stationary yellow means that there is some type of danger ahead. Slow down and use caution.
o A waving yellow means that there is a disabled car on the track. Slow down and prepare to go off your line to avoid the car.
o A flag with alternating yellow and red vertical stripes means that there is debris on the track (e.g., an oil slick). Slow down and watch for debris on the road.
o A black flag means that there is something wrong with your car. If the black flag is shown at all flag stations, it means that all cars are being called back to the pit, usually because there has been a crash or there is something else obstructing the track. Safely slow your vehicle, indicate to the flagger that you have seen the flag and pull into the pits for instruction from the trackmaster.
o A red flag means you must stop your car immediately. Brake slowly and be aware that another car may be behind you. Come to a stop, preferably off to the side. Stay still and stay in your car. There may be emergency vehicles entering the track. Wait for instruction.
o A black flag with a yellow meatball means that the run group is about to end. Proceed through the checkered flag and slow to a cool-down lap.
11. Chill out. The last run is called a "cool-down" lap because you are cooling down the brakes, which, by now, may be hot enough to melt rubber. Go slow and try not to use your brakes at all. Wave at all the corner workers. Use all of your fingers.
12. Steer correctly. When you are driving, position your hands at 3:00 and 9:00. (Ex-military: use 2100 and 0300) This will give you the best response time and best posture at high speeds.
13. Keep your windows down. Keep both front windows down. This is necessary so you can signal a pass and arguably safer in crashes where the glass breaking would otherwise cause injury. Also keep your radio off. You want to hear the noises your car is communicating to you, not your icy stunna tunes (y0).
Tips :
• Flags are a very important part of tracking your car because you cannot hear other people shouting while you are tooling around at 120 mph (190 km/h). Understand the flags as they are the sign-language of a race track.
• Bring extra oil and coolant with you. Check your oil after each run.
• Bring at least one spare. Tires can go quickly on a track.
• Watch from the stands so you can see where more experienced drivers begin their turns and start braking.
• Drivers Education events are critical and should be done prior to tracking your car. Most chapters of the Porsche Club of America allow other models of cars to participate.
• If you get into it, there are infinite modifications that can be done to make your car better and safer on the track; among the most important are better safety restraint harnesses, tires, brakes, fire extinguisher assemblies and roll bars.
• Check with the track or event organizer about anything you must bring or wear.
• Your car will not respond well to more than one drastic input at a time (throttle, brakes or steering). Your tires only have so much traction, so make sure that any strong inputs you need to do are separated. Brake or feather the throttle, turn in and accelerate. If done correctly, you will be at the outside edge of the track. Turning hard while braking or accelerating hard if done incorrectly can reduce traction, and possibly result in loss of control. Wet roads or cold tires (on your first lap) will require more caution.
• Smoking your tires before the race will warm up the tires giving you more traction.
• Spoilers will increase down force and result in more traction only in high performance cars.
• Learn how to drift. Drifting in the corners can allow you to corner at speed and keep you going.
• Remove Unnecesary Devices and objects from your car. Your not going to need the 800 Watt Amp and quad Subwoofer Box. And no your not going to need your back seats. Having Subwoofers and junk slide around your trunk changes your CG (center of gravity) and can change your cornering when you least expect it. Also, losing the weight makes you faster and youll perform better.
Warnings
• Obviously, there is significant danger in racing a car. Driving at high rates of speed on a race track takes different skills than everyday driving on public roads. People have died and been seriously injured when racing cars and you should treat this as a serious sport with an education that must take place prior to going fast or even setting foot in the pit.
• Make sure your equipment is up to current standards. For example, helmet standards change from time to time.
• Be advised that insurance is unlikely to cover you if you crash your car while tracking it. Some drivers tow their wrecked cars out of the track and then call the insurance company. This is insurance fraud and it is easy to get caught.
• Some car warranties will be voided or altered if they find out you tracked your car. Some new cars are said to have a computer chip that can report track-like conditions. These spy chips can then report back to the service department.
Things Youll Need
• A car to race
• A "Schnell" approved helmet which meets or exceeds the standards of the event in which you will be participating.
• Numbers for your car. Go to a sign shop and get magnetic ones or use masking tape. Even if you use magnetic numbers, you may wish to tape down the leading edge of the magnet to avoid it being lifted up by wind speed.
• A valid drivers license.
• Shoes must be smooth-soled and must completely enclose the foot.
• Wear a long-sleeved cotton shirt and jeans.
• It is best, but not required, to wear a racing neck collar available at automotive sporting stores.
• Bring water and food unless you are certain it will be readily available in the pit.
• Tire pressure gauge
• Extra motor oil (synthetic is best) and engine coolant.
source : wikihow
Selengkapnya..
Steps :
1. Find a race track. Racing your car on public roads is dangerous and illegal. You will also have a lot more fun on a track that is made for speed and safety. Search on the Internet (see "External Links" below) or look in a phone book.
2. Get schooled. Call the race track and ask when they will be hosting a "Drivers Education" event or when it will be open for the public. You should not race your car until participating in a Drivers Education event. If the track knows of none, search on the Internet for "motorsports clubs" in your area. If you have a car with a racing heritage like Audi, Porsche, BMW, Yugo, Daewoo etc., search for that club (i.e., Porsche Club of America). When you go to any track, if there is classroom time, avail yourself of the wisdom which will be imparted. Many racers began their careers participating in autocross events. Contact the local NASA (National Auto Sport Association) or do an online search.
3. Perform a safety check. On the day of your first race, check all of the mechanics of your car including oil (which should be topped off), tire pressure (a few PSI higher than normal-ask the instructor or another participant), tire tread, steering fluid, brake fluid and brakes. If you are not experienced in doing a safety check on your car, take it to a mechanic and tell the mechanic you plan on racing the car. When you get to the track, check the tire pressure and oil again. Look under "Things Youll Need" (below) for a list of items to bring to the track.
4. Learn the rules. Every event has different rules. One common rule is a prohibition on passing, among the most dangerous of racing moments. Find out the rules from the event organizer.
5. See the track. Feel the track. Be the track. On the track, go around twice at a normal rate of speed to get the lay of the land; if possible, get out and walk the track paying special attention to the turns. Commit the track to memory by drawing it on paper, noting turn-in and track-out points. Do a drive-through with a instructor if at all possible. Dont be scared of the track (AKA: An "OGorman"), but give it the proper caution and respect.
6. Track to curb. When you first go on track at speed, follow an experienced driver. Every turn is approached with a minds-eye view of entry & exit and understanding of apexes. The prime apex point is the point in the center of the turn which will produce the fastest exit speed. Depending on track conditions(debris)and traffic you may need to use an early or late apex. You want to maintain as shallow an arc from your entry (turn-in point) to the exit (track-out)point. You should always maximize the amount of road surface used.
7. Learn how to Brake. Rather than braking incrementally when going into a curve, it is best to be going as fast as you are prepared to and to then brake fast. This does not mean slamming on your brakes to the point where you could go into a spin (a common mistake) but it does mean knowing when to brake at the last possible moment. Braking can be practiced daily on interstate off-ramps, etc. Braking is usually done to impending lock-up. With ABS, you simply stand on the brakes. Braking can slow the car to the speed necessary to successfully negotiate a turn as well as settle the car at turn-in or when used in combination with steering and acceleration can cause the car to begin to rotate in order to carry more speed into a corner. A teacher familiar with the track can tell you exactly when you should start braking and turning and even where your car should be positioned going into turns.
8. Alternate of braking. Or you can start drifting if you know how to and take a steady and compressive turn and go out of it without losing much speed.
9. How to be Passed. If you are driving under "No Pass" rules, this usually means that passing is still allowed if consent is given. Ask first. If this is the case, ask for the signal to show your consent. You should not be doing a lot of passing (or any passing) as a novice but you should be getting passed often. When you see a driver approaching rapidly, the driver may well be looking for your signal. It is important to be courteous by giving this signal whenever it is safe to do so. This signal is usually an arm point out straight to the left if you wish the driver to pass to your left or, if to the right, your arm out the window and bent over the roof pointing to your right. Give the signal clearly with your arm fully extended. Immediately upon giving the signal, make sure your car behaves as if it is ready to allow passage on the side you indicated. Do not point right and then track right. Stay in your line of travel. Only give a passing signal on straightaways.
10. Learn and be mindful of the flags. While most tracks attach the same meaning to each flag, there is some local variation. Use this paragraph as a guide but be sure to check with the event organizer. The following will usually apply:
o A solid green flag means that the warm-up lap has ended and that passing may commence (when passing is allowed and then only according to rules of consent).
o A blue flag with a diagonal yellow stripe means that you need to allow the car behind you to pass. This is usually only shown when you have already failed to do the right thing without request. At the next passing zone, give the signal and hold your line.
o A stationary yellow means that there is some type of danger ahead. Slow down and use caution.
o A waving yellow means that there is a disabled car on the track. Slow down and prepare to go off your line to avoid the car.
o A flag with alternating yellow and red vertical stripes means that there is debris on the track (e.g., an oil slick). Slow down and watch for debris on the road.
o A black flag means that there is something wrong with your car. If the black flag is shown at all flag stations, it means that all cars are being called back to the pit, usually because there has been a crash or there is something else obstructing the track. Safely slow your vehicle, indicate to the flagger that you have seen the flag and pull into the pits for instruction from the trackmaster.
o A red flag means you must stop your car immediately. Brake slowly and be aware that another car may be behind you. Come to a stop, preferably off to the side. Stay still and stay in your car. There may be emergency vehicles entering the track. Wait for instruction.
o A black flag with a yellow meatball means that the run group is about to end. Proceed through the checkered flag and slow to a cool-down lap.
11. Chill out. The last run is called a "cool-down" lap because you are cooling down the brakes, which, by now, may be hot enough to melt rubber. Go slow and try not to use your brakes at all. Wave at all the corner workers. Use all of your fingers.
12. Steer correctly. When you are driving, position your hands at 3:00 and 9:00. (Ex-military: use 2100 and 0300) This will give you the best response time and best posture at high speeds.
13. Keep your windows down. Keep both front windows down. This is necessary so you can signal a pass and arguably safer in crashes where the glass breaking would otherwise cause injury. Also keep your radio off. You want to hear the noises your car is communicating to you, not your icy stunna tunes (y0).
Tips :
• Flags are a very important part of tracking your car because you cannot hear other people shouting while you are tooling around at 120 mph (190 km/h). Understand the flags as they are the sign-language of a race track.
• Bring extra oil and coolant with you. Check your oil after each run.
• Bring at least one spare. Tires can go quickly on a track.
• Watch from the stands so you can see where more experienced drivers begin their turns and start braking.
• Drivers Education events are critical and should be done prior to tracking your car. Most chapters of the Porsche Club of America allow other models of cars to participate.
• If you get into it, there are infinite modifications that can be done to make your car better and safer on the track; among the most important are better safety restraint harnesses, tires, brakes, fire extinguisher assemblies and roll bars.
• Check with the track or event organizer about anything you must bring or wear.
• Your car will not respond well to more than one drastic input at a time (throttle, brakes or steering). Your tires only have so much traction, so make sure that any strong inputs you need to do are separated. Brake or feather the throttle, turn in and accelerate. If done correctly, you will be at the outside edge of the track. Turning hard while braking or accelerating hard if done incorrectly can reduce traction, and possibly result in loss of control. Wet roads or cold tires (on your first lap) will require more caution.
• Smoking your tires before the race will warm up the tires giving you more traction.
• Spoilers will increase down force and result in more traction only in high performance cars.
• Learn how to drift. Drifting in the corners can allow you to corner at speed and keep you going.
• Remove Unnecesary Devices and objects from your car. Your not going to need the 800 Watt Amp and quad Subwoofer Box. And no your not going to need your back seats. Having Subwoofers and junk slide around your trunk changes your CG (center of gravity) and can change your cornering when you least expect it. Also, losing the weight makes you faster and youll perform better.
Warnings
• Obviously, there is significant danger in racing a car. Driving at high rates of speed on a race track takes different skills than everyday driving on public roads. People have died and been seriously injured when racing cars and you should treat this as a serious sport with an education that must take place prior to going fast or even setting foot in the pit.
• Make sure your equipment is up to current standards. For example, helmet standards change from time to time.
• Be advised that insurance is unlikely to cover you if you crash your car while tracking it. Some drivers tow their wrecked cars out of the track and then call the insurance company. This is insurance fraud and it is easy to get caught.
• Some car warranties will be voided or altered if they find out you tracked your car. Some new cars are said to have a computer chip that can report track-like conditions. These spy chips can then report back to the service department.
Things Youll Need
• A car to race
• A "Schnell" approved helmet which meets or exceeds the standards of the event in which you will be participating.
• Numbers for your car. Go to a sign shop and get magnetic ones or use masking tape. Even if you use magnetic numbers, you may wish to tape down the leading edge of the magnet to avoid it being lifted up by wind speed.
• A valid drivers license.
• Shoes must be smooth-soled and must completely enclose the foot.
• Wear a long-sleeved cotton shirt and jeans.
• It is best, but not required, to wear a racing neck collar available at automotive sporting stores.
• Bring water and food unless you are certain it will be readily available in the pit.
• Tire pressure gauge
• Extra motor oil (synthetic is best) and engine coolant.
source : wikihow
How To Choose Motor Oil
Many people don’t know how to select motor oil that will help them get optimum performance out of their car. People often just select the oil their father used, or they may take the suggestion of a counter person at an auto parts store who may not know any more about cars than they do. Things can get even more confusing because of ads that use slogans like “formulated for stop and go driving.”
One would certainly hope that the motor oil they chose could handle the rudimentary challenge of keeping a car running that had a tendency to stop and go. There are meaningful differences in motor oils and choosing the right one can have a major impact on how well your car runs. Selecting the right oil is often the quickest and cheapest way to improve your car’s performance and reliability.
Two components determine how well motor oil will perform in your car. One factor is the base oil, and the other is the combination of chemicals (additives) that are added to the base oil.
Base oils
The two primary types of base oils used are mineral and synthetic. Mineral oils are by-products of refined crude oil. Refining helps to reduce the impurities but leaves molecules of all shapes and sizes. Synthetic oils are manmade compounds whose molecules are all the same size and shape; consequently, synthetic oil has less friction and performs significantly better than mineral oils.
There’s been sizable growth in the use of synthetic oils over the years. In fact, synthetic oils are often what the factory uses in many new performance and luxury cars.
Additives
Regardless of the base oil used, chemicals must be added to give motor oil the characteristics needed to do its job. Typical additives that may be added to base oil include detergents to reduce the formation of residue, defoamants to deter absorption of air, anti-wear agents, antioxidants and others.
Although additives are typically only 15 to 25 percent of motor oil, they can impact a lubricant’s performance much more than the base oil. For instance, mineral based motor oil with a very good additive package can easily outperform synthetic motor oil with a mediocre additive package.
There is no easy way for a consumer to determine the quality of motor oil’s additive package. Price is often an indicator of quality since the more advanced additives cost more to produce. Performance is the ultimate measure of additive package quality.
Advances in lubrication
Some of the biggest technological advances in lubrication are now coming through advancements in chemical additives. These breakthroughs have been developed by a handful of companies that specialize in high-performance lubricants, as opposed to major oil companies whose primary focus is refining and selling crude oil by-products like gasoline and other fuels.
One high-performance lubricant company, Royal Purple, has developed lubricants that outperform both leading mineral oils and other synthetics. Their oil has been proven in numerous independent tests to dramatically reduce engine wear, increase horsepower and torque, and reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Cars using their oils can also go further between oil changes, saving the owner time and money, and reducing the impact on the environment.
Their oils are commonly used by professional racers. Additionally, in an annual competition among America’s top engine builders, seven out of eight chose Royal Purple for their engines. Their products are available exclusively through select auto parts stores and service centers.
What to choose
The easiest way to select motor oil is to follow the good, better, best model:
* Good -- Mineral-based (regular) motor oils. These are the cheapest and most widely available oils. They typically use standard additive packages that provide minimum levels of performance and protection.
* Better -- Synthetic motor oils. These man-made oils are more expensive that mineral-based oils but are still widely available. Their performance advantages come predominantly from the synthetic base oil used. They have a longer service life and offer some improvements in protection. They typically use the same additive packages found in mineral-based oils.
* Best -- High-performance synthetic motor oils. These motor oils are the most technologically advanced oils. Although they significantly outperform mineral based or synthetic motor oils, they are about the same price as standard synthetic motor oil. They are typically only available through auto parts stores and select oil change centers. These oils primarily differ in their use of more advanced, proprietary additive technologies.
Still confused? For a used car with little life left in it, stick with the cheap mineral-based motor oil. For a car you plan to keep for a few years and want to get a little better performance from, you should at least upgrade to synthetic motor oil. To get the most performance out of your car, truck or RV, or to protect a vehicle you really care about and want to last, upgrade to a high performance motor oil.
Think Again !
Lets assume you reside in Turkey. People in Turkey ask that question in tuning forums, too. But Turkey, at least has 4 different seasons at the same time. If we go a little bit further, some people swim under 45 degrees Celsius, while some other people are skiing on the mountains of Antalya. All these two happen in the came city!!! So, can we recommend only 1 kind of weight for a motor oil under that conditions? No.
The motor oil weight depends on the maximum and minimum temperatures and ONLY YOU know the maximum and the minimum temperatures in your area.
Choosing Motor Oil
The minimum and maximum temperatures in Istanbul-Turkey, the city where I reside are 0 degrees Celsius in winter (the minimum) and +30 degrees Celsius in the summer (the maximum). According to these data which look NORMAL, lets look at the above graph to find the right motor oil.
15 W40 in the NORMAL category looks like it suits best. the problem here is that the temperature data for Istanbul above are the average of the past years, so what if the minimum temp for this year is lower than the averages?
This year, a couple of days before I wrote this article the minimum temperatures were between -4 and -6, and it will be -8 degrees Celsius tonight. What I mean is, the viscosity you choose must include some tolerances to guarantee to include all possible temperatures. Even the minimum temperature is -8 degrees, it looks like 15W40 covers it, meaning it is safe to use 15W40 viscosity in Istanbul. Look at the graph:
• The minimum temp that a 15W40 weight oil covers is: -15 degrees Celsius
• The maximum temp that a 15W40 weight oil covers is: +40 degrees Celsius
So, what does using a 15W40 viscosity oil mean?
If the maximum temperature in your are is +30 degrees in summer and the minimum is -8 degrees in winter, it means that you have a 10 degree margin in summer and 7 degree margin in winter, which means it is safe to use 15W40 oil in your area.
What about 10W40?
In fact it is hard to find 15W40 nowadays in Istanbul, so I always purchase 10W40 instead. that means I will have protection down to -20 degrees Celsius in the winter.
Heard of 0W40 is the best???
The best according to what?? Do you really think that 0W40 is necessary in your area, or this is only "a friends" recommendation? 0W40 looks like an "all in one" solution, but it doesnt seem like natural. 0W40 means an oil protects down to -35 degrees in winter and up to +40 degrees in summer. I dont remember such a city.
I reside in Central Europe
If you reside in Europe, in most areas 10W30 (-20 / +30) will be OK because in so many countries, the maximum temp in summer is no more than 20-22 degrees.
The 10W30 - 15W40 combination
If you are not sure about the maximum summer temperature or you think that the margin for the summer is too low, you can use 2 different viscosity for winter and summer. Lets say that
• the minimum temp for your area in winter is: -10 to -15 degrees Celsius and
• the maximum temp for your area in summer is: +26 to +28 degrees Celsius.
A 10W30 oil will be OK for winter because it will protect down to -20 degrees Celsius but you may find "protection up to +30 degrees" insufficient, an may want some extra protection in the summer. You have to use an oil with 40 weight at the summer part this time, not 30.
The difference between 10W30 and 10W40 weight oils is that they both protect same in the winter(down to -20 degrees), but the second one protects more in the summer (up to +40 degrees Celsius). But remember, you are now in summer and you dont need an oil which protects down to -20 degrees anymore. So, 15W40 will be OK, too.
The conclusion
In fact theres no conclusion, cause choosing the right motor oil depends on the climatic conditions in your area. The only conclusion that may be is: "only you know the right motor oil". After choosing the most suitable one, you can just try the closest choices.
Selengkapnya..
One would certainly hope that the motor oil they chose could handle the rudimentary challenge of keeping a car running that had a tendency to stop and go. There are meaningful differences in motor oils and choosing the right one can have a major impact on how well your car runs. Selecting the right oil is often the quickest and cheapest way to improve your car’s performance and reliability.
Two components determine how well motor oil will perform in your car. One factor is the base oil, and the other is the combination of chemicals (additives) that are added to the base oil.
Base oils
The two primary types of base oils used are mineral and synthetic. Mineral oils are by-products of refined crude oil. Refining helps to reduce the impurities but leaves molecules of all shapes and sizes. Synthetic oils are manmade compounds whose molecules are all the same size and shape; consequently, synthetic oil has less friction and performs significantly better than mineral oils.
There’s been sizable growth in the use of synthetic oils over the years. In fact, synthetic oils are often what the factory uses in many new performance and luxury cars.
Additives
Regardless of the base oil used, chemicals must be added to give motor oil the characteristics needed to do its job. Typical additives that may be added to base oil include detergents to reduce the formation of residue, defoamants to deter absorption of air, anti-wear agents, antioxidants and others.
Although additives are typically only 15 to 25 percent of motor oil, they can impact a lubricant’s performance much more than the base oil. For instance, mineral based motor oil with a very good additive package can easily outperform synthetic motor oil with a mediocre additive package.
There is no easy way for a consumer to determine the quality of motor oil’s additive package. Price is often an indicator of quality since the more advanced additives cost more to produce. Performance is the ultimate measure of additive package quality.
Advances in lubrication
Some of the biggest technological advances in lubrication are now coming through advancements in chemical additives. These breakthroughs have been developed by a handful of companies that specialize in high-performance lubricants, as opposed to major oil companies whose primary focus is refining and selling crude oil by-products like gasoline and other fuels.
One high-performance lubricant company, Royal Purple, has developed lubricants that outperform both leading mineral oils and other synthetics. Their oil has been proven in numerous independent tests to dramatically reduce engine wear, increase horsepower and torque, and reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Cars using their oils can also go further between oil changes, saving the owner time and money, and reducing the impact on the environment.
Their oils are commonly used by professional racers. Additionally, in an annual competition among America’s top engine builders, seven out of eight chose Royal Purple for their engines. Their products are available exclusively through select auto parts stores and service centers.
What to choose
The easiest way to select motor oil is to follow the good, better, best model:
* Good -- Mineral-based (regular) motor oils. These are the cheapest and most widely available oils. They typically use standard additive packages that provide minimum levels of performance and protection.
* Better -- Synthetic motor oils. These man-made oils are more expensive that mineral-based oils but are still widely available. Their performance advantages come predominantly from the synthetic base oil used. They have a longer service life and offer some improvements in protection. They typically use the same additive packages found in mineral-based oils.
* Best -- High-performance synthetic motor oils. These motor oils are the most technologically advanced oils. Although they significantly outperform mineral based or synthetic motor oils, they are about the same price as standard synthetic motor oil. They are typically only available through auto parts stores and select oil change centers. These oils primarily differ in their use of more advanced, proprietary additive technologies.
Still confused? For a used car with little life left in it, stick with the cheap mineral-based motor oil. For a car you plan to keep for a few years and want to get a little better performance from, you should at least upgrade to synthetic motor oil. To get the most performance out of your car, truck or RV, or to protect a vehicle you really care about and want to last, upgrade to a high performance motor oil.
Think Again !
Lets assume you reside in Turkey. People in Turkey ask that question in tuning forums, too. But Turkey, at least has 4 different seasons at the same time. If we go a little bit further, some people swim under 45 degrees Celsius, while some other people are skiing on the mountains of Antalya. All these two happen in the came city!!! So, can we recommend only 1 kind of weight for a motor oil under that conditions? No.
The motor oil weight depends on the maximum and minimum temperatures and ONLY YOU know the maximum and the minimum temperatures in your area.
Choosing Motor Oil
The minimum and maximum temperatures in Istanbul-Turkey, the city where I reside are 0 degrees Celsius in winter (the minimum) and +30 degrees Celsius in the summer (the maximum). According to these data which look NORMAL, lets look at the above graph to find the right motor oil.
15 W40 in the NORMAL category looks like it suits best. the problem here is that the temperature data for Istanbul above are the average of the past years, so what if the minimum temp for this year is lower than the averages?
This year, a couple of days before I wrote this article the minimum temperatures were between -4 and -6, and it will be -8 degrees Celsius tonight. What I mean is, the viscosity you choose must include some tolerances to guarantee to include all possible temperatures. Even the minimum temperature is -8 degrees, it looks like 15W40 covers it, meaning it is safe to use 15W40 viscosity in Istanbul. Look at the graph:
• The minimum temp that a 15W40 weight oil covers is: -15 degrees Celsius
• The maximum temp that a 15W40 weight oil covers is: +40 degrees Celsius
So, what does using a 15W40 viscosity oil mean?
If the maximum temperature in your are is +30 degrees in summer and the minimum is -8 degrees in winter, it means that you have a 10 degree margin in summer and 7 degree margin in winter, which means it is safe to use 15W40 oil in your area.
What about 10W40?
In fact it is hard to find 15W40 nowadays in Istanbul, so I always purchase 10W40 instead. that means I will have protection down to -20 degrees Celsius in the winter.
Heard of 0W40 is the best???
The best according to what?? Do you really think that 0W40 is necessary in your area, or this is only "a friends" recommendation? 0W40 looks like an "all in one" solution, but it doesnt seem like natural. 0W40 means an oil protects down to -35 degrees in winter and up to +40 degrees in summer. I dont remember such a city.
I reside in Central Europe
If you reside in Europe, in most areas 10W30 (-20 / +30) will be OK because in so many countries, the maximum temp in summer is no more than 20-22 degrees.
The 10W30 - 15W40 combination
If you are not sure about the maximum summer temperature or you think that the margin for the summer is too low, you can use 2 different viscosity for winter and summer. Lets say that
• the minimum temp for your area in winter is: -10 to -15 degrees Celsius and
• the maximum temp for your area in summer is: +26 to +28 degrees Celsius.
A 10W30 oil will be OK for winter because it will protect down to -20 degrees Celsius but you may find "protection up to +30 degrees" insufficient, an may want some extra protection in the summer. You have to use an oil with 40 weight at the summer part this time, not 30.
The difference between 10W30 and 10W40 weight oils is that they both protect same in the winter(down to -20 degrees), but the second one protects more in the summer (up to +40 degrees Celsius). But remember, you are now in summer and you dont need an oil which protects down to -20 degrees anymore. So, 15W40 will be OK, too.
The conclusion
In fact theres no conclusion, cause choosing the right motor oil depends on the climatic conditions in your area. The only conclusion that may be is: "only you know the right motor oil". After choosing the most suitable one, you can just try the closest choices.
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